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The John Muir Trail

15 days Horseshoe to Bishop

This is the Sierra high country. You will “day hike” to the top of Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous United States, climb over seven passes, and walk down the famous golden staircase. Travelling above tree line much of time affords you expansive views of the glacier sculpted granite peaks and canyons of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. The varied landscape rewards you with trout-filled lakes and streams, cascades and waterfalls, dense forests, and serene meadows.

You will enter the wilderness from Horseshoe Meadow and follow the Pacific Crest Trail for three days to stage for the ascent of Mount Whitney from Guitar Lake. The top of Mount Whitney begins the start of a 72-mile trek along the southern third of the John Muir Trail before exiting over Bishop Pass to South Lake.

Hikers should be able to walk 12 miles, 3,000’ elevation gain/loss. You should acclimate to at least 8,000’ to 10,000’ for 1-3 days prior to the trip.
Horseshoe Meadow to South Lake (Bishop Pass) Elevation Profile

Day 1: Horseshoe Meadow over Cottonwood Pass to Chicken Spring Lake

4.5 miles, 1,400’ gain, 100’ loss

The day will start with a 6:00 breakfast at 245 Rocking K Road, Bishop, and then the two-hour ride to the Horseshoe Meadow trailhead. The walk begins as a gentle ascent beside the meadow for a mile before entering open forest to climb steadily to 11,160’ Cottonwood Pass by mile 3.8. We will turn north onto the Pacific Crest Trail, walking another half mile before leaving the trail to follow the creek a short distance up to Chicken Spring Lake.

There is no reliable water beyond Horseshoe Meadow until Chicken Spring Lake.

Day 2: Chicken Spring Lake to Rock Creek

9.8 miles, 600’ gain, 2,300’ loss

Returning to the Pacific Crest Trail, the path climbs briefly, gaining 300’ in the first mile and then undulates along the side of the mountain with good views of Big Whitney Meadow to the left. The trail enters Sequoia National Park in three miles, dropping steadily through open forest the rest of the day, passing the Siberian Pass junction at mile four and the Upper Rock Creek Trail junction at mile 8.5. The path will finally cross Rock Creek and then leave to follow a use path down the north side of the creek to our camp alongside a beautiful meadow edged by the creek. The creek crossing might be tricky if there has been recent rain.

Most of the seasonal streams in this area will be dry with no reliable water until we approach Rock Creek at the end of the day. Be sure to leave Chicken Spring Lake with plenty of water.

Day 3: Rock Creek to Guitar Lake

9.7 miles, 3,050’ gain, 1,050’ loss

The day starts with a steady climb out of the Rock Creek drainage to Guyot Pass, 1,400’ in 2.5 miles. Dropping down from the pass, the path traverses the hillside on a sandy trail. Twisted foxtail pines frame views of Red Spur across the Kern Canyon. There is a brief climb into the Whitney Creek drainage, before the trail drops 400’ to the Whitney junction near the creek, which is about six miles from our camp. Turn onto the trail to Whitney, following Whitney Creek and passing the ranger station before joining the John Muir Trail in 1.1 miles. Turn up the canyon toward Mount Whitney, passing out of the trees at Timberline Lake and finally stopping at our camp above Guitar Lake. Mount Whitney towers 3,000’ above us to the east.

There is fairly reliable water about a mile out of camp, with the next reliable water at Whitney Creek, 6 miles from the Rock Creek camp.

Day 4: Mount Whitney

9.2 miles, 3,100’ gain, 3,100’ loss

Mount Whitney provides several hours of shade after sunrise making the long climb to the top in the treeless landscape less daunting, so plan to leave camp at dawn. The trail starts off to the southeast for about a mile before starting to climb the steep wall on long switchbacks. Look across Hitchcock Lakes to Mount Hitchcock to gage your progress up the mountain, as Trail Junction, at 13,484 feet, is only 300’ above Mount Hitchcock. Go left at the junction to follow the fairly narrow trail cut into the rock on the west side of the pinnacles. There are several “windows” providing stunning views to the east. Another 1.9 miles and 1,000’ elevation gain takes you to the top. Enjoy your time at 14,496.81 feet before leaving the crowd at the top and returning to your wilderness camp at Guitar Lake.

There is no reliable water between Guitar Lake and the top of Mount Whitney.

Day 5: Guitar Lake to Tyndall Creek Frog Ponds

10.5 miles, 1,700’ gain, 2,200’ loss

The path returns 2.6 miles down the trail past Timberline Lake to the junction at Lower Crabtree Meadow, but this time follows the John Muir Trail to the right for 0.8 miles to merge with the Pacific Crest Trail. The trail soon skirts the east side of Sandy Meadow with views to the west of Red Spur, then climbs a low ridge before dropping down to Wallace Creek, which can usually be crossed on rocks. The creek runs through an open meadow surrounded by pines and the crossing is a pleasant lunch spot at 6.8 miles. Continue north past the Kern River junction to climb up a ridge to meadows of Wright Creek with stunning views to the east of the Sierra Crest including Mount Whitney. The 1,000’ ascent out of Wallace Creek tops out at the treeless Bighorn Plateau with views of the Kaweah Range and the Kern River Basin to the west before dropping down to our camp at the frog ponds near Tyndall Creek.

There is reliable water at Wallace Creek and Wright Creek.

Day 6: Tyndall Creek Frog Ponds over Forester Pass to Bubbs Creek

11.9 miles, 2,300’ gain, 3,350’ loss

The trail drops ½ mile down through open forest to the Tyndall Creek crossing and then starts the 2,300’ climb over 4.4 miles to the top of 13,180’ Forester Pass, the highest pass on the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails. The path begins through alternating forest and meadows. The landscape becomes more austere as the trail approaches and is cut from the headwall of the Kings Kern Divide. The last mile switchbacks up the right side of the pass before crossing over to the left side with tight switchbacks over the final grade. One is rewarded at the top with spectacular views of the Great Western Divide, the Kaweah Range, and the tall peaks north of Mount Whitney. Turning north, the trail enters Kings Canyon National Park, dropping down steep switchbacks. The rocky terrain gives way to forest with the final few miles a pleasant walk along Bubbs Creek to Vidette Meadow.

Day 7: Bubbs Creek to Charlotte Lake (Day 1 of the 9 days Onion Valley to Bishop Pass)

4.2 miles, 1,250’ gain, 800’ loss

The trail continues to follow Bubbs Creek to the lower meadow before turning north to climb 1,200’ in almost two miles to the Charlotte Lake Junction. Turn off the John Muir Trail to drop 1.3 miles to a comfortable camp near the outlet of Charlotte Lake.

Day 8: Layover at Charlotte Lake

The layover day provides time to fish and swim in the lake, do a bit of laundry, and rest your legs after a week of hiking.

Day 9: Meadow Charlotte Lake over Glen Pass to Arrowhead Lake

7.7 miles, 1,750’ gain, 1,850’ loss

We will backtrack 1.3 miles to the John Muir Trail junction before turning north toward the narrow ridge of 11,978’ Glen Pass. The day will start in forest, but soon climbs out of the shade to rocky slopes as it approaches the pass. You will pause at the top to celebrate the climb, but you will stay to enjoy the spectacular view. Eventually drop down from the pass for lunch at the beautiful Rae Lakes and on to our camp by Arrowhead Lake.

Upper Rae Lake at mile 5.5 is the first reliable water source.

Day 10: Arrowhead Lake to Twin Lakes

9.1 miles, 2,100’ gain, 1,850’ loss

We will spend the first half of the day walking 4.6 miles down a pleasant trail through forest and occasional meadows to Woods Creek. We can keep an eye out for one of Shorty’s cabins off to the right just before we reach the creek. Crossing a suspension bridge at 8,492’, we turn right and start back up through mostly forested slopes to 10,600’ in almost four miles. This is a quiet day after the excitement of Mount Whitney, Forester Pass, and Glen Pass, but the views and sounds of cascading creeks surrounded by rocky canyon walls make this a great day of hiking.

There are several creek crossings along Woods Creek with reliable water. Day 11: Twin Lakes over Pinchot Pass to the South Fork of the Kings River

7.6 miles, 1,500’ gain, 2,100’ loss

The hike starts near tree line, so most of this day will be walking in open alpine meadows and rocky slopes surrounded by multicolored rock walls along the way to 12,130’ Pinchot Pass. The easy descent down the north side passes a series of lakes before entering the forested area above the South Fork Kings River. The Lake Marjorie shoreline, at about mile 4.6, and the stream crossing in another ¼ mile are two great lunch spots. A side trip just before the drop to the Kings River to beautiful Bench Lake is worth the 250’ drop and gain over 3.4 miles.

As the trail approaches camp, it first crosses a fast creek coming from Taboose Pass and then comes to the Kings River ¼ mile later. The camp is between the two streams and to the left, at the 10,000’ level.

There are some seasonal creeks along the trail, but Lake Marjorie is the first reliable water after leaving camp.

Day 12: South Fork of the Kings River over Mather Pass to Lower Palisade Lake

9.4 miles, 2,200’ gain, 1,550’ loss

The trail soon leaves the forest to a series of lovely alpine meadows and finally into a barren, rocky landscape with some scattered ponds at the base of the massive wall that hides Mather Pass. A series of switchbacks ascends the last of the climb to the 12,100’ pass at mile 5.5 to enjoy expansive views of the trail behind and the basin ahead. The trail drops steeply with large steps and loose rubble with views of the classic glacial walls of the Palisade drainage. The trail turns to dirt below the switchback around mile seven as it aims steadily toward the Palisade Lakes below. Be sure to stop at the creek running into the east side of the upper lake to enjoy a small waterfall, wildflowers, and a great foot soak. Camp is at the far end of the lower lake.

There are several creek crossings approaching and leaving Mather Pass for water.

Day13: Lower Palisades down the Golden Staircase to Big Pete Meadow

11.9 miles, 1,400 gain, 2,800 loss

The day starts down the much- talked- about Golden Staircase, a steep set of well-designed, tight switchbacks dropping over 1,500’ in about two miles. Southbound JMT hikers usually climb this and then Mather Pass on the same day, often in blazing sun. We go down in the morning shade. The trail remains in the forest much of the day as it follows first Palisade Creek and then turns up the Middle Fork of the Kings River. Grouse Meadow is the perfect place for a quick dip and a wonderful view of spectacular Le Conte Canyon. This is a long day, but the path from the bottom of the staircase drops only 1,100’ in 4.5 miles, before climbing 1300’ in five miles.

Day 14: Big Pete Meadow to Lower Dusy Basin

5.7 miles, 2,054’ gain, 523’ loss

Begin the morning by returning 1.5 miles along the Middle Fork of the Kings River to the Leconte ranger station and the junction of the Bishop Pass Trail. Turn left to leave the John Muir Trail and switchback up first through forest and then rocky meadows with wonderful views across Le Conte Canyon. The trail climbs steadily to gain 2,000’ in three miles before arriving at the beautiful meadows surrounding the lakes of lower Dusy Basin. Camp is off the trail and east of the string of small, unnamed lakes anchored by Lake 10742 below Knapsack Pass.

Day 15: Lower Dusy Basin to South Lake Trailhead

8.5 miles, 1,350’ gain, 2,350’ loss

This is the way to finish a stay in the Sierras. The trail climbs to Bishop Pass past lakes, rocky slopes, and alpine meadows surrounded by the magnificent peaks of Dusy Basin. The path drops down from Bishop Pass at mile 3.2 through a series of meadows and along a chain beautiful lakes to reach the trailhead near the north end of South Lake.

There is reliable water from lakes and stream crossings on the north side of Bishop Pass.

The pack station drivers will arrive by 2:30 to shuttle you back to Bishop. RCPS drivers will meet hikers at Bishop Pass Trailhead, while stock will be unloaded a couple of miles further down the road.

Location Daily
Distance
Cumulative
Distance
Elevation
Horseshoe Meadow 0.0 9,940
AP Junction 0.3 9,940
Golden Trout Lakes Junction 1.0 9,990
Cottonwood Pass 3.8 11,131
Chicken Spring Lake Junction 4.4 11,219
Chicken Spring Lake Campsite 4.5 4.5 11,266
Chicken Spring Lake Junction 4.7 11,219
Enter Sequoia National Park 7.8 11,365
Siberian Pass Trail Junction 8.7 11,085
Army Pass Trail Junction 13.1 9,949
Lower Rock Creek Meadows Campsite 9.8 14.3 9,535
Guyot Pass 16.8 10,942
Crabtree Meadow Junction 20.2 10,332
John Muir Trail Junction 21.4 10,708
Guitar Lake Campsite 9.7 24.0 11,484
Trail Crest 26.7 13,432
Mount Whitney 28.6 14,504
Trail Crest 30.5 13,432
Guitar Lake Campsite 9.2 33.2 11,484
Crabtree Meadow Trail Junction 35.8 10,708
Pacific Crest Trail Junction 36.6 10,774
High Sierra Trail Junction 39.9 10,410
Tyndall Creek/Frog Ponds Campsite 10.5 43.7 11,041
Tyndall Creek Junction 44.2 10,921
Upper Kern Cut-Off 44.5 11,050
Forester Pass 49.0 13,152
Upper Bubbs Creek Campsite 11.9 55.6 9,989
Lower Vidette Meadow Junction 56.9 9,554
Bullfrog Lake Junction 58.1 10,526
Charlotte Lake Junction 58.5 10,747
Charlotte Lake Campsite 4.2 59.8 10,370
Charlotte Lake Junction 61.1 10,747
Kearsarge Pass Junction 61.3 10,771
Glen Pass 63.3 11,947
Sixty Lakes Basin Junction 65.1 10,565
Rae Lakes Ranger Station 66.0 10,612
Arrowhead Lake 67.4 10,320
Baxter Pass Junction 68.1 10,219
Drift Fence 69.3 9,539
Baxter Meadow Campsite 9.8 69.6 9,450
Woods Creek Junction 73.6 8,550
Woods Basin Junction 77.1 10,366
Leave Trail to Camp 77.9 10,692
Cross Country to Twin Lakes Campsite 8.5 78.1 10,602
Cross Country to Trail 78.3 10,692
Pinchot Pass 81.3 12,106
Bench Lake Junction 84.2 10,770
Taboose Pass Junction 84.3 10,777
South Fork Kings River Trail Junction 85.5 10,051
Cross Country to Kings River Campsite 7.6 85.7 10,000
Cross Country to Trail 85.9 10,051
Taboose Pass Trail Junction 86.3 10,193
Mather Pass 91.4 12,093
Lower Palisade Lake Campsite 9.4 95.1 10,603
Simpson Meadow Junction 102.0 8,035
Ladder Camp 8.8 103.9 8,300
Dusy Basin Junction 105.5 8,746
Leave Trail 109.2 10,800
Cross Country to Lower Dusy Basin Campsite 5.8 109.7 10,800
Cross Country to Trail 110.2 10,800
Bishop Pass 112.9 11,972
Ruwau Lake Junction 115.7 10,800
Chocolate Lakes Junction 116.4 10,720
Marie Louise Lakes Junction 116.8 10,440
Treasure Lakes Junction 117.4 10,240
South Lake Trailhead 8.5 118.2 9,820
*Distances based on Guthook’s PCT Guide

Please note that this represents the planned itinerary. Weather or other factors may affect the choice of campsites and daily travel. All decisions are made by the Head Packer with attention to the safety and comfort of guests and stock.

Expected Campsite Locations

Day To Elevation Latitude N Longitude W Miles Gain Loss
1 Chicken Spring Lake 11,250 36.456 118.226 4.5 1,400 100
2 Lower Rock Creek 9,550 36.496 118.338 9.8 600 2,300
3 Guitar Lake 11,550 36.572 118.313 9.7 3,050 1,050
4 Guitar Lake 11,550 36.572 118.313 9.2 3,100 3,100
5 Tyndall Frog Ponds 11,050 36.636 118.385 10.5 1,700 2,200
6 Upper Vidette 10,000 36.753 118.393 11.9 2,300 3,350
7/8 Charlotte Lake 10,450 36.778 118.428 4.2 1,250 800
9 Baxter Meadow 9,450 36.854 118.416 9.8 1,800 2,800
10 Twin Lakes 10,600 36.910 118.394 8.5 2,100 950
11 South Fork Kings River 10,000 36.969 118.446 7.6 1,500 2,100
12 Lower Palisade Lake 10,650 37.060 118.488 9.4 2,200 1,550
13 Ladder Camp 8,300 37.073 118.596 8.8 400 2,750
14 Lower Dusy Basin 10,800 37.093 118.562 5.8 2,500 0
15 South Lake Trailhead 9,800 37.169 118.566 8.5 1,350 2,350
Total 118.2 25,250 25,400

*Mileage, gain, and loss based on Guthook’s PCT Guide.

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